Bedroom

roomstitch
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

So I was playing with the Gimp and thought I would try to show you what our room looks like. 3 photos stitched together to show you our tiny space. The photo actually makes it look a little bigger than it is. I´m standing in the doorway as I take these!

Friends on the North Shore

Friends on the North Shore
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Gab with a couple of friends on the North Shore of Spain!

Bathroom Instructions

Bathroom Instructions
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

One thing Spain doesn´t have much is Public Toilets. Basque country on the other hand has amazing ones. THis sign was on the front of one, and we wondered what might happen if you exceed your 15 minutes. If you can´t read it click on the picture and it will get bigger.

Guggenhiem Manipulated

Guggenhiem Manipulated
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

One side of the Guggenhiem.It sure is a fun surface to play with, with the GIMP(photoshop)!

Homeless?

Homeless?
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Me and Gab laughed when we saw this walking down the street in Bilbao! Not sure what they are trying to say?

Nuclear Power gone wrong!

Nuclear Power gone wrong!
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

This is a nuclear plant that was built back in the 70´s. Shortly before it was to start up ETA killed the lead engineer/designer. Afterwhich the plan to use it was scrapped and it has sat here ever since unused. Good that they don't have nuclear power so close to the sea, but to build it they had to destroy one of the best inlets for shellfish! It´s a strange world!

Me and G on the North Shore

Me and G on the North Shore
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Found some pics from our trip to Bilbao that I didn´t upload. Here´s G and I overlooking the north shore of Spain!

Time to get to work!

My new profession?

Roman Retaining Wall

leaningagainstromanwallWEB
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Pretty neat to think about!

Our Group

HikinggroupschmidWEB
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Of explorers at the beginning of our trek through the mountains!

Ryan and a Roman Road

RyanRomanRoadWEB
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Not sure when it was built but I´m guessing it´s been awhile since the pothole repair crew has been around to mantain it. One of three roads that they built to get them through the mountains of Madrid!

Between a rock and a hard tree!

SchmidRockTreeWEB
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Me and G

MeandGSchmidWEB
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Hiking outside of Madrid this past weekend!

Forward thinking!

YEAH!!!

Stainedglassfriendssmall

Stainedglassfriendssmall
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

More stained glass!

ontanonsculpture

ontanonsculpture
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Dionysis again in alabaster.

PersephoneOntanon

PersephoneOntanon
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

An amazing sculpture was projected around the room by shiney tiles making it even more impressive.

Dionysis Ontanon

DionysisOntanon
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

These stained glass pieces were on every window in Ontañon. Quite amazing! This was my favorite.

CathedraltowerHaro

CathedraltowerHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

No good place to get a look at the whole cathedral. So here´s another part of it!

Cathedral interior Haro

CathedralinteriorHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Lots of Gold.

FrontofHaroCathedral

FrontofHaroCathedral
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

The main entry to the Cathedral.

MonumentHaro

MonumentHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

A monument to the people that left for the new world!

MonumentPlaqueHaro

MonumentPlaqueHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

This is the plaque on the monument up close.

Plaza de Paz Haro

PlazadePazHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Strange that I would end up with a name like Opaz. This is the main square and my window opened to this. Pretty neat!

ViewaroundHaro

ViewaroundHaro
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

Looking down from the hill that the Cathedral sits atop. Not bad eh? Makes you wonder why they left!

500 years ago a Haro left their homeland in the Rioja.

-Today a few drops of their blood returned home. Arriving here today was a great experience. Earlier in the day I met with someone from Bodegas Ontañon and now I sleep in my historic past.

My day started out ok, waking up earlier than I have at any point in this trip. Frustrated and without a car, I went in search of something to take me to the vineyard. Having had a coffee, and typed my last entry, I decided to return to the hostel to see if my hosts could provide me with direction. Unfortunately, he did not understand me and I called a cab at 9am for an 11 o'clock appt. Deciding punctual was good but that premature was bad, I ignored his directions as to where to meet the cab, checked out of the room, and chose to wander some before finding my own cab. I had by this point called ahead to find out how far the ride would be and was relieved to find out that it was only about 10 minutes away.

I left with my luggage determined to find something interesting in the city with the one and half hours I had to wait. The river Ebro and an African grey parrot that loved to whistle at passing ladies, made this mission a success. Both equally intriguing, the River helped to facilitate centuries of wine trade, while the parrot crossed over the taboo line of interspecies romance.

I arrived at the bodega at eleven am on the dot, where I waited for both Spanish time to catch up with me and my guide to arrive. In short order, I was greeted by Xabier a soft spoken man whose English was a bit like my Spanish as far as conjugation, though with more overall vocabulary. The tour started with a look at an art collection temporarily on display intermingled with the wineries permanent collection. Having an art background this was a real treat with amazing pieces in everything from oil to graphite, wood and alabaster all from local artists of the Rioja. As we moved further into the wine cellar, I was shown barrel rooms that could have been art galleries. It was amazing to see the art of wine making contrasted with the plastic arts we more often acknowledge as art. In my opinion they both balanced each other well and lent deeper meaning to the overall experience.

During the whole time we were wandering, we began to talk more and more like wine "geeks". To my joy this was combined with sprinklings of Spanish when Xabier found himself failing for the right word. It was fun to let loose and ask some of the deeper questions about soil management, pruning techniques, soil types, and well you get the point. After 3 months without much in the way of intellectual conversation about wine I was happy to soak this up and enjoy it.

Eventually we did return to one of the art galleries to taste some wine and chat some more. A pleasant experience and the main reason for my good spirits as I write this. While we talked and tasted through the wines we began to understand each other better and found similar views on many basic principles. I think we both needed someone to share common thoughts with and we both let loose leaving no topic untouched. We seemed to understand each other well and we both shared a deeply held passionate love for wine and food. As the time passed, we talked about favorite wines, our beliefs in wine production and distribution, along with what wine meant to us. Sounds boring but I felt alive. I tried 3 of their wines, all were nice and well made, but unfortunately, I was unable to taste their dessert wine and Gran Reserva. After some 3 hours we decided wind things up promising to stay in touch by email, this trip was officially looking up.

• 1998 Ontañon Reserva - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  95%tempranillo 5%Granacha
  Deeper Ruby with richness to the color. Sour oak with a Dusty spice and Sweet candied cherry. Med body with Lighter acid and a sturdy but not strong tannin presence. Very rich with a nice vanilla, light spice, some plum, and light licorice. Very nice though a bit lighter than the Crianza. Another fine food wine and one that I can enjoy now. Very soft and elegant.
  C5a13t15o7= 90 (90 pts.)


• 2001 Ontañon Crianza - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  90% Tempranillo 10% Granacha
  
  Deep ruby red with a light purple quality. Spicy nose with vanilla, milk chocolate and a strange smoke aroma I can't quite place. Med boy to light with a strong acidity and lit tannins. Bright fruit framed by oak with out oak overpowering it. Tannins are in the background with the acid showing upfront and proving to be great with food.
  C5a12t15o6= 88 (88 pts.)


• 2004 Ontañon Riberas de Marco Fabio - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  Very clear color. White grapes peaches flowers, nectar...alive and fun nose. Med weight with a light sweetness and medium weight acid. Peaches and light flowers. Very nice though nose is better than the follow through.
  C4a13t13o6= 86 (86 pts.)
  

Posted from CellarTracker!

This is one of my fondest memories so far created on this adventure. Someone pure of heart with a passion so well defined and an understanding for what I am doing. So far a lot of people look at me and wonder why I would leave a good job, safety of a language I know and my friends all in pursuit of a dream. This man does.

To top off an already perfect day, he offered two bottles of wine to enjoy with my wife when I got home. The two I did not taste. One a Moscatel with 25gr residual sugar and the other the 1994 Gran Reserva both wines I can’t wait to taste. Offering a car ride to the bus station I accepted and we continued chatting for the short drive to town. Shaking hands we said our goodbyes, and I went off in search of a bus, which just happened to be a 3 HOUR wait. Figuring lunch was in order after all the wine; I set off in search of a suitable menu del dia.

Resturante Muro Asador was my choice; 12 euros for three courses and a bottle of wine. Thank god I was starting to become a bit parched! I dined on patatas ala Riojana; basically a potato stew thick with hunks of chorizo and small ribs of lamb. I liked it though I hope it to have it again to confirm the recipe. This was followed by a Lamb braised in peppers and garlic with richness from a large dose of olive oil. Rich, and though it did not seem like a very big portion, this combined with the potatoes left me with a pleasantly full stomach. Finishing everything up, I relaxed and let my food settle with a cup of café and a small flan. Longroño was a good place after all; all you needed was to see it in the right light, and as I left, I made a note to return with my wife to enjoy it a bit more.

I must say the bus rides so far have been incredible and the one heading to Haro was nothing less than spectacular. Finally, I was in wine country surrounded by vineyards on every piece of land I could see. In some ways, disconcerting due to the seemingly overabundance of vines everywhere you looked. One thing I can’t figure out though is why even with so many vineyards they still seem so magical every time I am near them. They stretch on forever and yet they are all so different, each with its own personality. The mere sight of them sends chills through my spine thinking of their history and the wines produced from them. Framing all of this is a backdrop of cliffs and mountains rising to the sun, slate blue with hints of emerald green dancing across them. I could fall in love with this.

Arriving in Haro I was greeted by my past bad luck and found the tourist office closed. Not to be discouraged I strolled off under the weight of my bags until I was able to find a nice room overlooking the old part of town. Here, I could gaze down at stones walked upon by my ancestors, while sipping wine from my balcony. Not knowing what to expect when arriving in Haro, I was glad to feel a sense of happiness and comfort. 500 yrs ago someone left here to start a new life in a foreign land, and today, a small part of that person came back to say thank you. While I may only have 1000th of the genetic ties of that person, I still feel as though I have completed one circle in my life. Touching the old church, who construction was started about the same time my ancestors left, made me grin and somehow feel connected to this small town. I can now understand better why people try to find there roots, and at the same time, feel sorry for all of those who have lost touch with their pasts. Oh and by the way when you leave a town for 500 yrs things sure do change! J

One note on the family ties to Haro; Grandpa Rath has with tireless research discovered some evidence that we may have come over here almost 500 years ago with Cortez. The truth to this is hard to verify and I don't think I’ll have much luck researching it for him here. But I do know this, if DNA does pass on and on changing and morphing but always picking up characteristics of past lives then I have proof positive we are from here. For Haro is the land of the Hobbit, or rather, the little people. As I wander about. I find many people all with the similar stature as my grandmother - short and efficient. Personally, I think there was some cosmic twist when I fell in love with my wife. The gods must have either been playing a trick or sending a message when I found that I needed to spend my life with a little person of my own. Or rather Hobbit as Gab is more prone to state, and in many ways this is the land of the hobbit with castles on mountains and far away mountains that tower over you as you stare across the plains.

In Haro I did find many wine shops and one even offered an enthusiastic individual who was happy to chat with me about all things wine. Begoña at Comercial Vincola Riojana is a person excited by life and wine. She was gracious and helpful and I look forward to returning to talk to her again. If any of you do make the trek to Haro make sure to stop in and visit, an impressive wine shop with many wines both rare and commonplace. If you do, make sure to ask her which wines are “Yummy” and see if she remembers her brief English lesson!

For the rest of the day I wandered some before heading to bed for sleep. I decided not to go out at night but rather to save my pennies for dinner the next night at an asador made famous for its suckling lamb. I’ve been told it’s something not to miss and I guess I’ll have to let you know how it goes.

Till soon, Ryan

Tourist Office Longroño

Touristlongronoblog
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

The view as I wait in the sprinkling rain outside the tourist office. Oh yeah and the disfunctional roof!

Drive up the mountain

Driveupthemountain
Originally uploaded by obiscoito.

A bit blurry but you get the point. A big change from what I have seen so far in Spain!

So once again high hopes dashed or so I think.

Part one in my travels through the Rioja. Don´t worry it gets better I just need to edit the other posts...Stay tuned...

Yesterday I took an early bus to Logroño a small (135,000) town in the heart of La Rioja. A town where all the wine business goes down! The bus ride was magnificent and showed all save the sea as far as what terrains and climates Spain has to offer. Mountains, cliffs, plains, desert and more all within a 5 hour bus ride with a 20 minute layover to pick up new passengers. Not bad, in fact I hope to one day take a car back with Gab so that we can stop and explore along the way. At one point we were side winding our way up a hill covered with snow, all the while passing carcasses of less fortunate souls who had jackknifed along the way. Stunning, and I was hoping to find Longroño nestled in these hills so that I could stop and call this my new home. But it was not to be as we slowly snaked our way out of the canyon we came to the plains again and industry. Not to mention Longroño seems to have a bad case of the "condos" if you know what I mean. At least upon first glance the condo ruled, though I was to find out later that there is much more to offer here.

Like always arriving was a bitter mix of relief and frustration. So far on my trips I plan to be set back at least 4 times or so. My first setback in Longroño was a combo both weather and tradition. Getting my bearings straight I headed to the tourist office to find a room for the night and to get some information about where the bodega was where I had an appointment the next day. The time was 3:15 and like all things Spanish they were closed until 4. Oh well I would wait under the nice awning to avoid the rain or so I thought. But such is my luck some wise ass architect thought it would be nice to have an awning with braces but no cover. Oh so modern, don't they know that braces are meant to support a roof and a roof will help to protect against rain. Fortunately a large pine tree provided some cover and protection against the elements and I waited.

Good news the tourist office was helpful and I was able to locate all the major car rental locations and a few cheaper rooms with little trouble. I even received directions to my appointment the next day with Bodegas Ontañon. Things were looking up and after booking myself into a pension for 20€ a night I was set to find a car to rent for my exploration of the city.

Setback #2 and note to self. In life there are times you learn things little my little or as the Spanish say poca a poco. Other times you learn a lot all at once. My fate seems to be the latter. When renting a car in Spain book as far ahead as possible. The rates for one day in Euros averaged 65 with a minimal deduction if I used it for more than one day. On a budget that dwindles everyday this does not seem to be an option that I can afford and thus as I write this in the back of my mind I search for another way to succeed in acquiring transportation to the bodega.

Frustrated and realizing that I needed to conserve funds I headed out for a walk and to find a grocery store to feed myself on a budget. This was easy and in the mean time I was able to make a nice circuit of the historic downtown where I wandered winding streets and narrow roads.

After acquiring food for the night I headed back to my room to eat something after a long day without anything to eat. I really wasn't hungry and a bit confused by this as so far I had had only a granola bar and a banana and we were approaching 7 o'clock. Oh well I thought first some food and then a Tapas or two to round things out.

An aside for a moment. Recently I received a call from a friend who was in Europe on business. I was to meet him here in Longroño for a dinner and to catch up. The call postponed changed this as he had had a long trip and was feeling homesick. Not necessarily from Minnesota but rather from his wife. At the time I thought that that was sweet but didn’t really understand it. I now know what he means. Part of the reason for these trips being so hard for me is not being able to share it with Gab. She would have loved the bus ride here and as I headed out to find Tapas I quickly realized that I like company. There are so many cute little bars and places to grab a glass of wine in this town and not one appeals to me right now. I know I should just go in and try to find conversation or some culinary treat but without the ability to share the moment it loses some of its fun.

So I wandered and saw many a place that I must return to. The streets here are very narrow in places and the 2 or 3 streets with all the bars are just that bar after bar after bar. Amazing and beautiful, I made it to not one. Not for lack of want but more for lack of caring. These trips are less enjoyable that I thought they might be. On the other hand today I'm to take a taxi to a bodega to taste wine followed by what I hope to be a trip to Haro. We’ll see if things start to look up.

For those of you who don't know my grandfather was able to trace some of our roots back to this old wine trading town in central Spain. I'm hoping that some ancestral cosmic vibration might bring me a feeling of home and safety when I arrive. I'm not holding my breath, though I am a bit excited. Here's my chance to touch something in my far pass. Do I hope to receive great insight from this visit? No, but I do hope to complete one more goal in my life and learn something too.

Till soon, Ryan