500 years ago a Haro left their homeland in the Rioja.

-Today a few drops of their blood returned home. Arriving here today was a great experience. Earlier in the day I met with someone from Bodegas Ontañon and now I sleep in my historic past.

My day started out ok, waking up earlier than I have at any point in this trip. Frustrated and without a car, I went in search of something to take me to the vineyard. Having had a coffee, and typed my last entry, I decided to return to the hostel to see if my hosts could provide me with direction. Unfortunately, he did not understand me and I called a cab at 9am for an 11 o'clock appt. Deciding punctual was good but that premature was bad, I ignored his directions as to where to meet the cab, checked out of the room, and chose to wander some before finding my own cab. I had by this point called ahead to find out how far the ride would be and was relieved to find out that it was only about 10 minutes away.

I left with my luggage determined to find something interesting in the city with the one and half hours I had to wait. The river Ebro and an African grey parrot that loved to whistle at passing ladies, made this mission a success. Both equally intriguing, the River helped to facilitate centuries of wine trade, while the parrot crossed over the taboo line of interspecies romance.

I arrived at the bodega at eleven am on the dot, where I waited for both Spanish time to catch up with me and my guide to arrive. In short order, I was greeted by Xabier a soft spoken man whose English was a bit like my Spanish as far as conjugation, though with more overall vocabulary. The tour started with a look at an art collection temporarily on display intermingled with the wineries permanent collection. Having an art background this was a real treat with amazing pieces in everything from oil to graphite, wood and alabaster all from local artists of the Rioja. As we moved further into the wine cellar, I was shown barrel rooms that could have been art galleries. It was amazing to see the art of wine making contrasted with the plastic arts we more often acknowledge as art. In my opinion they both balanced each other well and lent deeper meaning to the overall experience.

During the whole time we were wandering, we began to talk more and more like wine "geeks". To my joy this was combined with sprinklings of Spanish when Xabier found himself failing for the right word. It was fun to let loose and ask some of the deeper questions about soil management, pruning techniques, soil types, and well you get the point. After 3 months without much in the way of intellectual conversation about wine I was happy to soak this up and enjoy it.

Eventually we did return to one of the art galleries to taste some wine and chat some more. A pleasant experience and the main reason for my good spirits as I write this. While we talked and tasted through the wines we began to understand each other better and found similar views on many basic principles. I think we both needed someone to share common thoughts with and we both let loose leaving no topic untouched. We seemed to understand each other well and we both shared a deeply held passionate love for wine and food. As the time passed, we talked about favorite wines, our beliefs in wine production and distribution, along with what wine meant to us. Sounds boring but I felt alive. I tried 3 of their wines, all were nice and well made, but unfortunately, I was unable to taste their dessert wine and Gran Reserva. After some 3 hours we decided wind things up promising to stay in touch by email, this trip was officially looking up.

• 1998 Ontañon Reserva - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  95%tempranillo 5%Granacha
  Deeper Ruby with richness to the color. Sour oak with a Dusty spice and Sweet candied cherry. Med body with Lighter acid and a sturdy but not strong tannin presence. Very rich with a nice vanilla, light spice, some plum, and light licorice. Very nice though a bit lighter than the Crianza. Another fine food wine and one that I can enjoy now. Very soft and elegant.
  C5a13t15o7= 90 (90 pts.)


• 2001 Ontañon Crianza - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  90% Tempranillo 10% Granacha
  
  Deep ruby red with a light purple quality. Spicy nose with vanilla, milk chocolate and a strange smoke aroma I can't quite place. Med boy to light with a strong acidity and lit tannins. Bright fruit framed by oak with out oak overpowering it. Tannins are in the background with the acid showing upfront and proving to be great with food.
  C5a12t15o6= 88 (88 pts.)


• 2004 Ontañon Riberas de Marco Fabio - Spain, La Rioja (4/19/2005)
  Very clear color. White grapes peaches flowers, nectar...alive and fun nose. Med weight with a light sweetness and medium weight acid. Peaches and light flowers. Very nice though nose is better than the follow through.
  C4a13t13o6= 86 (86 pts.)
  

Posted from CellarTracker!

This is one of my fondest memories so far created on this adventure. Someone pure of heart with a passion so well defined and an understanding for what I am doing. So far a lot of people look at me and wonder why I would leave a good job, safety of a language I know and my friends all in pursuit of a dream. This man does.

To top off an already perfect day, he offered two bottles of wine to enjoy with my wife when I got home. The two I did not taste. One a Moscatel with 25gr residual sugar and the other the 1994 Gran Reserva both wines I can’t wait to taste. Offering a car ride to the bus station I accepted and we continued chatting for the short drive to town. Shaking hands we said our goodbyes, and I went off in search of a bus, which just happened to be a 3 HOUR wait. Figuring lunch was in order after all the wine; I set off in search of a suitable menu del dia.

Resturante Muro Asador was my choice; 12 euros for three courses and a bottle of wine. Thank god I was starting to become a bit parched! I dined on patatas ala Riojana; basically a potato stew thick with hunks of chorizo and small ribs of lamb. I liked it though I hope it to have it again to confirm the recipe. This was followed by a Lamb braised in peppers and garlic with richness from a large dose of olive oil. Rich, and though it did not seem like a very big portion, this combined with the potatoes left me with a pleasantly full stomach. Finishing everything up, I relaxed and let my food settle with a cup of café and a small flan. Longroño was a good place after all; all you needed was to see it in the right light, and as I left, I made a note to return with my wife to enjoy it a bit more.

I must say the bus rides so far have been incredible and the one heading to Haro was nothing less than spectacular. Finally, I was in wine country surrounded by vineyards on every piece of land I could see. In some ways, disconcerting due to the seemingly overabundance of vines everywhere you looked. One thing I can’t figure out though is why even with so many vineyards they still seem so magical every time I am near them. They stretch on forever and yet they are all so different, each with its own personality. The mere sight of them sends chills through my spine thinking of their history and the wines produced from them. Framing all of this is a backdrop of cliffs and mountains rising to the sun, slate blue with hints of emerald green dancing across them. I could fall in love with this.

Arriving in Haro I was greeted by my past bad luck and found the tourist office closed. Not to be discouraged I strolled off under the weight of my bags until I was able to find a nice room overlooking the old part of town. Here, I could gaze down at stones walked upon by my ancestors, while sipping wine from my balcony. Not knowing what to expect when arriving in Haro, I was glad to feel a sense of happiness and comfort. 500 yrs ago someone left here to start a new life in a foreign land, and today, a small part of that person came back to say thank you. While I may only have 1000th of the genetic ties of that person, I still feel as though I have completed one circle in my life. Touching the old church, who construction was started about the same time my ancestors left, made me grin and somehow feel connected to this small town. I can now understand better why people try to find there roots, and at the same time, feel sorry for all of those who have lost touch with their pasts. Oh and by the way when you leave a town for 500 yrs things sure do change! J

One note on the family ties to Haro; Grandpa Rath has with tireless research discovered some evidence that we may have come over here almost 500 years ago with Cortez. The truth to this is hard to verify and I don't think I’ll have much luck researching it for him here. But I do know this, if DNA does pass on and on changing and morphing but always picking up characteristics of past lives then I have proof positive we are from here. For Haro is the land of the Hobbit, or rather, the little people. As I wander about. I find many people all with the similar stature as my grandmother - short and efficient. Personally, I think there was some cosmic twist when I fell in love with my wife. The gods must have either been playing a trick or sending a message when I found that I needed to spend my life with a little person of my own. Or rather Hobbit as Gab is more prone to state, and in many ways this is the land of the hobbit with castles on mountains and far away mountains that tower over you as you stare across the plains.

In Haro I did find many wine shops and one even offered an enthusiastic individual who was happy to chat with me about all things wine. Begoña at Comercial Vincola Riojana is a person excited by life and wine. She was gracious and helpful and I look forward to returning to talk to her again. If any of you do make the trek to Haro make sure to stop in and visit, an impressive wine shop with many wines both rare and commonplace. If you do, make sure to ask her which wines are “Yummy” and see if she remembers her brief English lesson!

For the rest of the day I wandered some before heading to bed for sleep. I decided not to go out at night but rather to save my pennies for dinner the next night at an asador made famous for its suckling lamb. I’ve been told it’s something not to miss and I guess I’ll have to let you know how it goes.

Till soon, Ryan